Q: “Hi Kristina,
Here’s a question. Can you do a post on doing eye make up for older eyes? My mother has expressed that she’s struggling to work out how to do make-up and what types and colours to wear now that she’s older. Metallics don’t generally look as good, so are there some good matte shadow palettes she could look into? What kind of priming should be done to avoid makeup falling into the creases? Are there any make up techniques she could try to make her eyes look more youthful, beyond just using eye cream?
A: Hi Ellen!
Great question! When it comes to makeup for mature aged eyes, the first rule is to make sure the skin around this area is in tip-top condition so the wrinkles and crow’s feet look less pronounced. For a fast fix, a hydrating eye cream which contains retinol (try Clinicians Complex Retinol Eye Cream) will plump up the skin and smooth lines while a serum containing peptides such as Olay Regenerist Eye Lifting Serum will help to rebuild the surface and protect it against future damage. But the best time-fighitng tool which helps to significantly reduce dark circles, puffiness and boost circulation is to massage the area each night with an eye cream that contains a metal applicator like Givenchy No Surgetics Plasti Sculpt Lifting Gel Eye De Puffer.
When it comes to selecting an eye shade and formula, it’s best to stay away from textures that are too bright, metallic, glittery or wet as they exaggerate fine lines. Matte or satin textures in netural tones are most flattering. For matte, I recommend Christian Dior 5 Color Designer All In One Artistry Palette in No. 708 Amber Design and for a velvet satin finish, opt for Guerlain Ecrin 4 Couleurs Long Lasting Eyeshadow in #07 Les Cuirs or for a variation of colours, try Jane Iredale Perfectly Nude Eye Shadow Kit.
To make the eyes appear youthful and gorgeous, gently shade in the crease and the outer corner of the eye, blending slightly upwards to give an impression that the eye tilts up, reversing the downwards droop. This will also help to brighten the eyes and disguise weariness.
Lining the lashes also becomes increasingly important as we age. The use of a pencil or gel liner (preferably in brown as black can be too full on) will help to open the peepers right up. Steer clear of liquid liners as these do not sit well with skin creases.
If your mother’s eyes are round or are starting to droop, she can create lift by directing the eyeliner slightly upwards on the outer edges of the lash line, as opposed to following the natural shape when applying her makeup. If her inner rims are starting to redden, she can conceal this with a skin-toned eye pencil and follow with two coats of volumising mascara to help restore fullness to the lashes. Focus on the base of the lash; don’t place a heavy load of mascara on the tips of the lashes or they’ll look clumpy and heavy.
Also, fuller, deeper brows give the appearance of an instant face-lift. Try a shadow or brow pencil that’s close to the hair colour to fill in the arches brows. If you’re using a powder, apply with a stiff angled brush pressing into the bare spots and blend with a spoolie brush or clean mascara wand.
Finally, avoid using foundation or powder on crow’s feet. Instead, distract from them by dabbing concealer only where needed — in the discoloured areas around the eyes and face. Lancome Long-Lasting Softening Concealer helps soften the look of undereye circles and visibly eliminates the signs of stress and fatigue, while making the eyes look well rested. Use a small, flat makeup brush to apply the concealer in the dark area and gently pat—don’t massage or rub—the concealer on the discoloured area. If you try to massage the concealer in, you’ll pull and stretch your eye area’s delicate skin.
❤ Kristina xo
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